Knives are part of our daily life in the kitchen, at work, or outside. But it is very rare for someone to know how to keep a knife sharp and how to distinguish what is really ‘sharp’. We hope this article helps you to solve and maintain the secrets behind the mystery of sharp swords.
The ultimate EDC sharp edges are extraordinarily long, but this tutorial will teach you how to hold the edges well for most scopes.
There are different steps in this system, but it requires a little practice, care, and attention. Anyone should be able to use this method to sharpen a knife effectively with little investment in results. The system consists of the following steps:
Acknowledging edge damage is the first step in opening your eyes. You can see what type of damage occurred by looking at both sides and in front of the sheet.
If you look to the side, you can see that there are gaps in the lines that form the edge of the sword. It’s a scroll or a slide. I will remove both. The depth of the debris coming down from the blade refers to the amount of metal that must be removed from the entire edge to maintain the same overall shape of the knife.
It would also be a good idea to look at the thickness behind the blade. The blade will probably stick to the material a lot after a few cuts and will not cut as easily as before. . You need to thin it slightly behind the edge.
Relieves mental stress
The first step is called edge tension. The steel at the edge of the blunt sword is weak and is essentially destroyed by the abuse it has suffered over time. It is important to remove this damaged steel to reveal the colder, stronger steel underneath.
To do this, you need to take a knife and run it through a grindstone to dull the edges and expose good steel. While doing this, hold the edge perpendicular to the stone and apply very light pressure.
Determination of the acute angle.
The next step is to find the angle you want to sharpen if you do not have a specific tool. Depending on your application, you can test how thick or thin the knife is and how it is finished after the first shave, but let’s only start with 15 degrees on each side.
How do you measure 15 degrees? Take a sheet of paper and each corner is at a 90-degree angle. If you fold the corner angle into 3 equal parts, you get a total angle of 30 degrees. Half is 15 degrees. This is the angle at which the knife is placed against the stone and tapped behind the edge. If you are a beginner, you should look the best knife grinder for beginners.
Use the grindstone
To begin with, start scattering the entire length of the edge along with a relatively flat rough stone (about 220-350 gravel is good). If the diagonal is already the same, it is better to make the same number of strokes on both sides. Otherwise, you will have to best judge how much steel you need to remove to get the same ring.
Start with a sweeper with as many stone surfaces as possible, work on the cuts if necessary, keep the same angle at the tip and be careful not to let the tip of the knife slide along the road. This can cause the tip of the blade to protrude or break off. A lot of work can be done with relatively light pressure.
You will eventually know when to stop at this point on both sides before doing the “burr”, but for now, I sand the material until there are small burrs on the blade, on the other side of the burner.
A burr is a thin strip of worn metal that builds up on the side of the blade opposite the one you polished. You can usually slide the nail off the edge and the grain will scratch it. Once the burr is created on one side, drag the knife through a piece of wood several times to remove or reduce the burr, making sure you get the same burr on the other side (develop and remove a burr).
Generally, a brunette is inevitable, but if you improve your skills, you should be able to get to the point where you simply create a super-fine brunette that you can’t really see or hear. By creating and removing a consistent burr, the metal on the edge of the knife can be quite sharp, but also extremely weak. This metal was emphasized by bending back and forth and tearing off the braai. The steel in the circle has been the victim of the same properties that occur when a spoon is bent back and forth many times, the metal weakens until it breaks. At that point, you’ll need to press the edge once more to get rid of this weaker steel, and then you’ll pretty much go back to where you started.
You should now have a primary slope to work with. You can lift the sand off the rocks and do a higher polish if you want from here.
After creating the primary edge phase, a microphase must be applied. This is the part of the “edge” that makes the actual cut. The ring section is there to be thin and look good. The micro bevel can also remove the fine burrs from the previous step.
To apply the microphase to the leading edge you already made, take one of the thicker stones you used when you did the edge phase and start with it.
Using strokes all over the skin, if not most of it, make the initial border strokes at a slightly higher angle than the one used to create the border band. This slightly wider edge creates a stronger leading edge, which increases overall edge retention.
For most people, 20 degrees is ideal, but raising the airborne slightly above the angle guide created in the previous step works well.
If you perform alternating strokes, keep the edge of the blade perpendicular to the movement you make through the stone, so that the scratch pattern is perpendicular to the orientation of the blade itself, if it is not turned slightly towards the handle, then it will go away an edge that cuts better in activities where the knife cuts into a tear cut, which is more common. Super light hits here folks!
After a large number of alternating strokes, you should feel a developed edge, continue making lighter strokes and, if possible, increase the fineness of the stones you use. After this step, you should have a nice working stitch, but you can make it a little finer if you like.
Polishing an edge is usually the last step; will sharpen (and sometimes sharpen if you use abrasives on your abrasive) by aligning an edge and teeth created by the scratches of the stone. This can be done with a flat piece of cardboard, newsprint blue jeans, or usually a leather strap (although a suitable belt is recommended if available).
Instead of using the starting edge strips as if you want to shave off a piece of everything you do (the stone bricks), you will drag the edge back over the stroke, using alternate sides each time and using a light touch to work the edge. a little better than before, with a higher level of sharpness.
If you want to go a step further, you can apply any amount of abrasive to your “abrasive” and this will further refine the edge, although usually not needed for most daily cutting tasks, it can be nice to see how far sharpness can be. going from its sides. Experiment with different abrasives on your abrasive and see what works best for you and the knives you have.
With technique and patience, you can produce incredibly sharp blades.
Keep your advantage
After a while, your knife will become blunt again. I don’t care if you have the best premium language, it will happen on time. Depending on how much you let it go, a slight adjustment will be required or you will have to repeat the whole process.
In general, I recommend most average users to keep the side edge at 15 degrees, but if you notice that your sides aren’t getting dull, you can keep the side at 15 degrees per side and keep it messed up next time. diluted rather than micro obliquely. This will greatly improve performance, but leave a head start that may not last that long.
|Title||How to Get Your Knives Razor Sharp|
|Meta Description||Knives are part of our daily life in the kitchen, at work, or outside. But it is very rare for someone to know how to keep a knife sharp and how to distinguish what is really ‘sharp’. We hope this article helps you to solve and maintain the secrets behind the mystery of sharp swords.|